Linen
is one of the first fibers to ever be made and it comes from the fibers of the
flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest
in the world and there history goes back many thousands of years. As early as
3,000 B.C, the fiber was processed into fine white fabric and wrapped around
the mummies of the ancient Egyptian pharaohs. Over time, expanding trade routes
brought linen to Europe, the Near East, and America. “Linen is popular to many
cultures for its strength, natural luster, and its absorbency”
(nyfashioncenterfabrics.com).
There
is no special design process for the manufacture of linen yarn. It takes about
100 days from seed planting to harvesting of the flax plant. “Flax cannot
endure very hot weather, therefore, in some countries flax is grown in the winter.
In commercial production, the land is plowed and worked into a good seedbed by
dicing, harrowing, and rolling. The seeds must be shallowly planted and may be done
by hand” (historyforkids.org).
After about 90 days, the leaves wither,
the stem turns yellow, and the seeds turn brown, indicating it is time to
harvest the plant. As soon as the plant appears brown, by hand it is pulled out
of the ground, grasped just under the seed heads and gently tugged. The tapered
ends of the stalk must be preserved so that a smooth yarn may be spun. The
stalks are tied in bundles and are ready for extraction of the flax fiber.
The plant is passed through coarse combs, which removes the
seeds and leaves from the plant. The fiber is then combed and separated by
length. The woody bark surrounding the flax fiber is decomposed by chemical
retting, which loosens the pectin or gum that attaches the fiber to the stem.
If the flax is not fully retted, the stalk of the plant cannot be separated
from the fiber without injuring the delicate fiber.
After the retting process, the flax plants are squeezed and
allowed to dry out before they undergo the process called breaking. The
decomposed stalks must be sent through fluted rollers, which break up the stem
and separate the exterior fibers from the bast that will be used to make linen.
The fibers are now combed and straightened in preparation for spinning. “Long
linen fibers are put through machines called spreaders, which combine fibers of
the same length, laying the fibers parallel so that the ends overlap, creating
a sliver” (historyforkids.org). The sliver passes through a set of rollers,
making a roving which is ready to spin. The linen rovings are then put on a
spinning frame and drawn out into thread and wound on bobbins or spools. The
fibers are formed into a continuous ribbon by being pressed between rollers and
combed over fine pins. This operation constantly pulls and elongates the
ribbon-like linen until it is given its final twist for strength and wound on
the bobbin.
“The
atmosphere in the spinning factory must be both humid and warm in order to make
the fiber easier to work into yarn” (historyforkids.org). The linen is run
through a hot water bath, which binds the fibers together, creating a fine
yarn. The moist yarns are transferred from bobbins on the spinning frame to
large take-up reels. These linen reels are taken to dryers, and when the yarn
dries, it is wound onto bobbins for weaving or wound into yarn spools for
varying weight. The yarn now awaits transport to the loom for weaving into
fabrics, toweling, or for use as twine or rope.
“Today,
linen is usually an expensive textile, and is produced in relatively small
quantities. Since linen resists dirt and stains, it is relatively easy to take
care of.” (historyforkids.org). Linen remains a key natural fiber known for its
strength, smooth cool texture, and sophisticated appearance. “Linen is a
popular choice for warm-weather clothing because it feels fresh and appears
crisp. Linen is a top choice for fine upholstery and window treatments and can
be used for just about anything” (Yates, p. 38).
References
Carr, K. (n.d.). Linen - History of Linen
for Kids!. Kidipede - History for Kids - Homework Help for Middle School
Social Studies. Retrieved September 8, 2012, from
http://www.historyforkids.org/learn/clothing/linen.htm
Fabric Information: Linen, History of Linen
| NY Fashion Center Fabrics. (n.d.). Silk Fabric, Cotton Fabric, Online
Fabric Store | NY Fashion Center Fabrics. Retrieved September 8, 2012, from
http://www.nyfashioncenterfabrics.com/linen-fabric-info.html
Yates, M. (2002). Fabrics: a guide for
interior designers and architects. New York: Norton.
